castoryl maleate
modified castor oil in which some of the unsaturation has been converted to a cyclic dicarboxylic acid

Odor: characteristic

Use: Castoryl maleate is a lipid analogue with good affinity to the skin and superior moisturization on wash off Lipids found in healthy, moisturized skin are typically in a lamellar gel crystalline state that is responsible for the skin's barrier function. In the stratum corneum, ceramides and cholesterol organize together with fatty acids to form the highly ordered lipid phase of the skin. Rinse-off personal cleansing products designed to remove dirt and debris from the skin can also remove protective lipids, which can weaken the skin's natural defensive barrier and result in dry, flaky skin. Even emollient-rich cleansers can leave the skin feeling and looking dry, since most emollients are washed away when the cleanser is rinsed off. Castoryl maleate has been found not only to deposit onto the skin from rinse-off cleansing formulas, but also to deliver quantifiable long-lasting moisturization. When combined with palmitic acid, it forms a highly ordered lamellar gel that is analogous to the lipid barrier in healthy skin, and can duplicate in-vitro the effect of the more expensive, complex combination of cholesterol and sphingosine ceramide. Skin texture and appearance are visibly improved.